• Rhude Men's Spring 2023

    2 days ago - By WWD

    When Rhuigi Villaseñor made his official debut with Rhude at Paris Fashion Week in 2020, he struggled to define his label's raison d'être. Two years later, the Los Angeles-based designer was back in the French capital for the first time since the pandemic - and this time, he knew exactly what he wanted to say.
    His spring show, titled “New Money,” was an acerbic commentary on streetwear's role in the fashion ecosystem, at a time when luxury brands have never been more invested in courting a younger, more casual consumer. It felt especially relevant since Villaseñor is poised to show his...
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  • Jeanne Friot Men's Spring 2023

    2 days ago - By WWD

    Parisian designer Jeanne Friot launched her genderless label during the pandemic and had been showing digitally throughout.
    So for her first on-schedule presentation and third collection, she put on a party in the underbelly of the Palais de Tokyo - just the place to make the most of her already-popular feathered jeans.
    But she wanted to offer a slice of festive nightlife because “it's a place where you can find freedom, so it's where the queer community finds itself ,” she explained, adding that she intends her brand as a platform for social commentary.
    Or, as the embroidery on a cap...
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  • Rick Owens Spring 2023

    2 days ago - By WWD

    If the gridlock traffic and jam-packed schedule at the Paris men's shows made everyone forget about the pandemic period, when everyone vowed to slow down the fashion system, the heat gripping this European men's season is at least reminding everyone about global warming.
    Rick Owens added to high temperatures at his midday, outdoor display by having a crane hoist, one by one, three flaming orbs, and then drop them into a fountain at the centre of the Palais de Tokyo parvis.
    Dunk us, too, please, Rick, we're boiling.
    Instead, he trotted out a collection defined by transparent fabrics...
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  • Arturo Obegero Men's Spring 2023

    2 days ago - By WWD

    The starting point for Arturo Obegero's spring collection was the news that a gold mine could be opening near his coastal hometown in Northern Spain, an unwelcome development expected to bring destructive change to the fragile maritime area.
    In the face of this possible disappearance of an entire way of life, the Paris-based designer felt a “love letter to its colors, its landscapes, its mythology” was needed to “show its endangered beauty in the most sensual and seductive way possible,” he explained at a preview.
    Presented in an old Parisian building whose distressed walls gave a...
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  • Homme Plissé Issey Miyake Men's Spring 2023

    2 days ago - By WWD

    Virtual is good, but in-person? Infinitely better. That was a takeaway from Homme Plissé Issey Miyake's remarkable fashion show, where models, performers and acrobats spun, leapt and flew through the air at Paris' central post office.
    The display was breathtaking - literally and figuratively. So was the fashion. For spring, the Homme Plissé Issey Miyake design team had oppositions in mind.
    “The collection looks at the contrast between the flower and the vase - something that is really delicate and something that is robust, and how to compare and contrast ,” explained Issey Miyake's...
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  • Greg Lauren Men's Spring 2023

    2 days ago - By WWD

    Joyous to be back after two years of virtual appointments, Greg Lauren brought his dressed-up take on upcycling to Paris this season. “It's almost brewing in the collection, this wanting to reconnect,” he said by way of preamble.
    He built his “Reconstruct” lineup around what he described as “archetypes.” These ran from the wardrobe items he has made a business out of pulling apart and putting back together - “I never get tired of trying to reinvent the simple, familiar piece,” he said - to figures like the cowboy: part collective myth, part earthy reality, informing, for one, the...
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  • Sean Suen Men's Spring 2023

    2 days ago - By WWD

    Speaking over Zoom from Beijing, under what he described as “semi-lockdown,” Sean Suen took his inspiration for spring 2023 from the slightly blurry, uncomfortable feeling of a hangover, likening it to the uncertainty of recent times. “I'm a drinker, I like to drink, and sometimes I have a hangover,” the designer said jovially.
    This leitmotif took the collection in a more casual direction, veering toward loungewear with satiny pajamas, elongated, back-to-front night shirts, silk boxers and lace accents.
    Outsized - and at times back-to-front - tailoring evoked sloppy dressing, although it...
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